The following pictures show the finished self made model of a Bombed out Building
for my 28 mm WW II Miniatures.
I discribed the modelling and casting of this model here: Ruined Wall Pieces (WIP).
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the three main parts: |
first corner (5 parts):
second corner (7 parts):
the two corners together:
the higher half (14 parts):
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the whole building: |
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some detail shots: |
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Painting a second ruin (step-by step pictures): |
A few weeks ago I finally found the time to paint a second set of my "Ruined Building". The challenge was to paint it exactly the same colours as the first set. I intend to combine parts from both sets to "build" different ruins with mixed parts and take some photos. Once again I shot some pictures during the painting process.
I began painting by applying the basic colours. First was a heavy drybrush with a light ochre for the roughcast. Then I carefully painted the brickwork with a mix of burnt sienna and brown. The picture above shows the result after this first step.
The final colouring was done with dry pigments. I brought a set with 8 very useful colours from NOCH. For me the use of dry pigments was a way to speed up the painting process comparing to drybrushing and washes. And I think the result is even better and more realistic.
I used the colours in the the pictures above:
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the fifth colour from the left (with small additions of the fourth) for the roughcast of the frontside |
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the second and third from the left (with small additions of the sixth) for the bricks |
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the fourth from the left (with small additions of the first) for the plaster of the backside |
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the first and the seventh for the weathering and dirt |
I don't use any varnish on my models. They change/darken the colours of the dry pigment very much. I apply the pigments with a brush (synthetic hair). When the dry pigments are rubbed on the surface with the brush the pigments stick very good to the model. Handling the models don't leave pigments on the fingers or marks on the model. But I don't handle my models to often so I can't promise that this method is suitable for models regulary transported and used for gaming.
The pictures above show the walls after the use of the dry pigments.
Next to paint was the rubble . In this picture you can see a finished part from the first set (left) and a piece with only the ground colours applied.
All the pieces of rubble with the ground colours (dark brown, dark grey, burnt sienna) applied.
The rubble after drybrushing with lighter colours (mid brown, light grey, ochre).
Once again I used the dry pigments to achieve the final colours. The dusty and realistic look can't be done with other painting technics so straightforward and fast.
In a last step I added some light ochre acryl colour to the bricks to simulate some remains of plaster.
The base was painted with the same colours and painting technics as described for the rubble.
I built
and cast windows some times ago and I thought it was time to use them on this model
finally (the first time). I cutted some windows out of the frames to simulate open or
destoyed windows later. The windows were undercoated with a thin black wash. Then I
painted them roughly with an off white acrylic colour.
I also wanted to recreate remains of the glass. For this I used pieces cut from a
sheet of overhead film. The small pieces were carefully glued to the windows with
superglue.
The pictures show the finished walls after painting, weathering and the fitting of the broken windows.
With this close ups of the finished windows I end this short tutorial for now.
to be continued ....